How not to falter in Malta

Are you thinking of a trip to Malta the next time you manage to escape your particular version of tragic reality? Here are a few handy tips along with some photos I took with my very own index finger.

San Blas Bay, Gozo © Ryan Chapman

Tip #1: 

Go out-out in Valletta.

We found Valletta's nightlife to be unexpectedly cool. And I mean cool in a cocktail-bars-spilling-out-onto-the-street kind of way, not in a I-think-I-might-need-a-jumper-soon kind of way (though do take a jumper with you just in case, obviously). 

Our highlight was the Cinema Bar where a pianist provided a live soundtrack to old silent films  projected onto the wall, whilst I drank over-priced craft beer and chain-ate complimentary popcorn.

Valletta © Ryan Chapman

Tip #2: 

Don't expect to be blown away by stunning beaches (unless you go to Gozo).

We stayed in Mellieha because it was said to have one of the best beaches in Malta, but Mellieha itself is just a concrete jungle of ugly hotels and apartment complexes near an underwhelming stretch of sand. And don't even get me started on Bugibba. 

The island of Gozo has some far prettier spots. See Tip #3.

Valletta Contemporary, Valletta © Ryan Chapman

Tip #3: 

Gozo is prettier.

A little underwhelmed by what Malta had to offer in terms of scenery, we hired a car and got the ferry over to Gozo (20 minutes). You can drive from anywhere to anywhere on Gozo in less than half an hour on near-empty roads, and - good for us - they drive on the right side of the road (meaning the left side). We saw all four corners of the island in a day and wish we could have stayed longer.

Find the beautiful secluded red sand beach at San Blas and then cross the island for a seafood lunch in the stunning Xlendi Bay. Perfect.

San Blas Bay, Gozo © Ryan Chapman

Xlendi Bay, Gozo © Ryan Chapman

Xlendi Bay, Gozo © Ryan Chapman

Victoria, Gozo © Ryan Chapman

Tip #4: 

Visit the Lascaris War Rooms.

All I knew about Malta's involvement in World War II came from a brief summary on the BBC's World War II in Colour series (which is on Netflix now by the way, and is brilliant). It turns out that the George Cross awarded to Malta for the courage of its people was well-earned, and a trip to the War Rooms in Valletta will reveal why.

The defence of Malta from wave after wave of attacks from Axis air forces was orchestrated from here, as was the Invasion of Sicily. Wait for a guided tour and have it all dramatically re-lived. Cross your fingers and hope that Stefan is your guide because he's an incredible goosebump-inducing storyteller. 

Before anyone could beat him to it he finished the tour by saying "I know, I know. If only I was your history teacher". He knew everyone was thinking it.

Lascaris War Rooms, Valletta © Ryan Chapman

Tip #5:

The food is incredible.

It's an over-used compliment and one I think is rarely justified when applied to entire countries,

however the food in Malta is incredible. For whatever reason, the bar is set very high. We ate at some average-looking 'this'll do' kind of places and were super impressed with almost everything. We also ate at some very highly-rated places and were never disappointed.

Our overall favourite was Rebekah's in Mellieha. This friendly little place is a Michelin Star waiting to happen. It's fairly priced for what is exceptional food and they even offer a pick-up service if you're staying near-by. Winning.

Valletta © Ryan Chapman

Gozo sunset © Ryan Chapman

To conclude, any trip to Malta should include at least a day exploring Gozo; at least a day and night in Valletta; and some budget set aside to eat really, really well.

Merci Arsene

After an emotionally crushing defeat in Madrid on the Thursday it was easy to imagine the Emirates being somewhat flat for Arsene Wenger's final home match, just three days later. It was anything but.

The stars may not have aligned for Wenger to leave Arsenal on a European trophy high, but they did at least align for his farewell party. The sun, the goals, the late afternoon kick-off on a bank-holiday weekend; all combined to create a special upbeat atmosphere rather than the subdued wake-like affair I had feared.

When Wenger arrived in North London I'd already been a Gooner for a good few years, having been indoctrinated during the tail-end of George Graham's reign. I don't specifically remember the infamous 'Arsene Who?' headline - I was even less of a keen reader of the Evening Standard as a kid than I am now - but I do remember the general feeling of intrigue surrounding his appointment. Personally I wanted Ian Wright to take over, ignoring the fact that top strikers don't tend to take on managerial positions at the peak of their playing career.

Within two seasons Wenger's poster was pride of place on my bedroom wall: Premiership trophy in his left hand, FA Cup trophy in his right. The 1997/98 league and cup double was just the beginning. Fast-forward a couple of decades and Arsenal fans at the Burnley game - the final home match of this season - were clearly determined not to let recent on-field events sour this day of appreciation. And nor, it seemed, were the players.

5-0 didn't even flatter Arsenal. With every goal the atmosphere grew more celebratory and at times it had the feel of a testimonial match. When Per Mertesacker entered the field of play for the last time with 10 minutes left, the game reached peak carnival. His every touch was cheered raucously. So vivid were the testimonial vibes I half-expected Wenger to sub himself on and be allowed to dance through the Burnley defence, dodging comically-timed tackles before lifting it over an already horizontal keeper to make it 6.

But Wenger didn't need to score a goal to be the centre of attention. With just seconds of normal time remaining, 'There's Only One Arsene Wenger' reverberated around the Emirates as loudly as I've heard any chant anywhere. And as if the referee wished to make that the lasting memory of the match he blew for full-time bang on 90 minutes. With the football out of the way, the ceremony could begin.

My thoughts as Wenger soaked up the love on a lap around the pitch had little to do with football. My overwhelming feeling was respect. Respect for the dignity and decency with which he conducted himself. Respect for the integrity with which he represented the club. Respect for his balance in commenting on a range of political and societal issues over the years. Respect for his fearlessness in doing things his way, back when his way was completely alien.

I mean, what right did this unknown Frenchman have - this unknown Frenchman who looked more like he was about to give a philosophy lecture than manage a football team - coming over here and revolutionising our national game? As a 10 year-old, in retrospect, I think that taught me a lot. It taught me not to judge a person on first impressions, their appearance, their nationality, or anything else.

So where did it all go wrong for Arsene at Arsenal?

I think Patrick Vieira summed it up perfectly, in a recent interview. Asked what Wenger's biggest strength is, Vieira answered: 'trust', describing how Wenger always trusted his players to do the right thing without direction. But when asked for Wenger's biggest weakness, Vieira answered the same. Trust. "Because sometimes as players you need to be kicked in the arse". And never has that been more true than this season.

For me though, the prevailing memory can only be respect. Not only has Wenger been a fantastic manager,  he's clearly an incredible human being too. So. Merci Arsene. Thank you for being you, and thank you for the memories - the doubles, the FA Cups, the zipper fails compilation video - and to echo your own sentiments: we will miss you.

Film festival update

My work is on show at several film festivals over the next few months. Here's what and where.

A Southern Quest:

US: Flagstaff Mountain Film Festival, 18th February

IE: Killarney Mountain Festival, 10th March

US: Wasatch Mountain Film Festival, 2nd - 8th April

A Southern Quest was a long time in the oven and is now gaining much-deserved traction at adventure film festivals. The film follows an ambitious expedition led by renowned climber Stephen Venables to conqueror unclimbed peaks on the Antarctic island of South Georgia.

My role began as editor but I've since taken on shooting and producing responsibilities and I'm delighted to see all the hard work paying off.

As an added bonus, Stephen Venables - the undisputed star of the film thanks to his effortless charm and witty one-liners - also happens to be giving a talk at the Killarney Mountain Festival about his  experiences climbing Mount Everest on a famous trip in 1988.

Austerity Britain: Grenfell

GB: Shorts On Tap, tbc

GB: Beer Town Film Festival, 26th May

There's always a worry that a film about a particular event or tragedy will quickly become outdated and irrelevant. Not so with a film about the Grenfell disaster. As we learn more and more about the causes of the fire and the subsequent lacklustre response from the authorities, it's as pertinent as ever to reflect on the lessons society and government haven't yet learnt.

This film was part of a four-part series I produced, directed and edited last year about the devastating societal effects of idealogical austerity. The fire at Grenfell happened after the first two parts had been released and was an obvious focus for the final instalment as it encapsulates the 'culture of cuts' so horrifically well.

When I submitted the film to the Beer Town Film Festival I thought it was being held in the quaint Cornish coastal town of Beer. However, it turns out the 'beer' in this instance is literal and the festival is in fact being hosted by a brewery in Staffordshire. 

As a perk for being involved I'm entitled to 'brewery benefits' which I'm sincerely hoping is just another way of saying 'free beer'.

A Transylvanian Traverse

I knew they brought down a communist dictator with a revolution in 1989. I knew they beat England with late goals in 1998 and 2000. And I knew Nigel Farage said he doesn't want them living next door. But that was pretty much all I knew about Romania and its people before travelling through Transylvania.

© Ryan Chapman

Timișoara © Ryan Chapman

It turns out Farage isn't alone in his disdain for the former Soviet-bloc nation. According to a poll, Romania is overwhelmingly the EU country where Brits would least like to live. So, naturally, I was keen to find out what's so dreadful about the place and its people and I strongly suspected the answer was nothing at all.

Here are some highlights of the trip, interspersed with photos and the occasional vague attempt at humour*.

Libearty Sanctuary (near Brasov)

Up until fairly recently it wasn't uncommon for Romania's native brown bears to be captured by restaurant owners and kept as pets to attract customers. I don't know about you, but when I'm choosing an eatery I'm often swayed if they have a distressed caged bear at the front door.

This practice was illegal, but the authorities turned a blind eye because there was nowhere to house any rescued bears. That was until 2005, when the brilliantly named Libearty Sanctuary opened its doors. Which was just in time because when Romania joined the EU new animal rights laws rendered many of the country's zoos illegal, adding to the list of bears needing a new home.

© Ryan Chapman

© Ryan Chapman

The sanctuary is part rehabilitation centre, part retirement home. The elders live out the rest of their days in bear paradise and the cubs are taught how to wild, before eventually being released. The sanctuary is very keen to specify it is 'not a zoo' and that its primary concern is for bears, not tourists. In other words, if you don't see any bears, tough shit.

The Museum of the Revolution, Timisoara

Timisoara is probably the most historically significant city in Romania. As like most of history, the majority of it happened ages ago. But, as recently as 1989, the revolt against Nicolae Ceausescu's regime began here, in the far west of the country. The tidal wave of revolution spread eastward towards Bucharest and Ceausescu was toppled several days - and at least a thousand lives - later, before being sentenced to death by firing squad.

Timișoara © Ryan Chapman

To this day, bullet scars littering building facades in Timisoara make the violence of 89 seem all the more recent. The Museum of the Revolution brings it to life further, in a very understated way, inside a dilapidated building that probably hasn't seen a paintbrush since Ceausescu was in power (though I suspect this is intentional).

Christmas Markets

Sibiu was first on the Romanian Christmas Market scene, and other cities were quick to get in on the action of glühwein and sweet treats. Whilst Sibiu's is the most festively colourful, they range from the complete meat-feast in Timisoara (think hog roasts and sausages) to hosting almost-forgotten British band Smokie in Brasov (Living Next Door to Alice went down a storm, although some people weren't fully aware of who Alice is, judging by what they shouted during the chorus).

Timișoara © Ryan Chapman

Sibiu © Ryan Chapman

Sibiu © Ryan Chapman

Brasov © Ryan Chapman

Castles

Bran Castle - also known as Dracula's Castle - is a confusing mix of gothic splendour and bullshit. The approach is laden with vampire references, as this is said to be the inspiration behind Bram Stoker's fictional castle in Dracula. However, there's no evidence to suggest either Stoker or Vlad the Impaler - who Dracula was loosely based on - even visited the area, let alone the castle. In fact, they probably didn't even know it existed.

Soon after entering, the vampire bubble is burst and you realise it's actually a museum of furniture once belonging to some royal family in the 1920's. So you come for 15th century Transylvanian vampires and get 20th century Ikea.

Bran Castle © Ryan Chapman

They know it's bullshit, we know it's bullshit, they know we know it's bullshit, but tenuous links aside, armed with an active imagination Bran Castle is actually worth a visit. Just don't get locked in because rumour has it you wouldn't survive the night...

For an actual castle, with turrets and shit, there's Corvin Castle which watches over the somewhat crappy town of Hunedoara. And there's not a cartoon vampire in sight.

Corvin Castle © Ryan Chapman

In summary:

If myth-busting borderline xenophobic perceptions isn't a good enough reason to choose Romania as your next holiday destination then go for the charming old towns, refreshingly affordable restaurants and, of course, the bears.

Sibiu © Ryan Chapman

Be aware that nothing Romania is perfect. If the meal is delicious, the service will probably let you down. If the train is on time, there will probably be a power cut. If the cocktail menu looks good, they'll probably have run out of ice. But, be tolerant, and Romania is incredibly rewarding. After all, perfection is dull anyway.

*Umm, I warned you they'd be vague.

Make it Short film festival

My film Austerity Britain: Grenfell, exploring the ways in which the ‘culture of cuts’ contributed to the Grenfell fire, is hitting the short film festival circuit. 

First up is the Make it Short film festival in Lewes on the weekend of 14th/15th of October. 

Make it Short is a film festival aiming to shape cultural and social debate and will be showcasing films on the topics of social realism, alternative facts and modern feminism, among others. 

Austerity Britain: Grenfell - the 4th of the four-part series I made for Sub this summer - will close the Saturday afternoon session at around 6pm.

For more information visit: http://makeitshort.co.uk

[film] Bike with Purpose

After 36 hours of traveling - through the air, on the road and across the sea - I eventually arrived at the stunningly laid-back Belizean island of Caye Caulker, thanking the respective gods of neck pillows and podcasts.

Contrary to the common misconception, I hadn't only ventured to this corner of the Caribbean to snorkle with sharks, swing in hammocks and gorge on fresh lobster. I was also there on a filmmaking mission with the island’s only high school, and relentless force for social good: the Ocean Academy.

The Ocean Academy opened in 2008 to offer Caye Caulker’s children an education without the prohibitively expensive and lengthy seafaring commute to Belize City. Since its launch, the school has also turned its hand to several social enterprise initiatives that actively encourage pupils to make a sustainable living in the tourism and fishing industries.

My short doc focuses on one of the longest running of these initiatives: Bike with Purpose. Every Thursday, pupils lead visitors on bike tours around Caye Caulker's tiny network of sandy, pot-holed lanes as they point out their favourite spots and tell stories from their childhood. The money is then split between the school and the pupil, all ultimately going towards their education.

Caye Caulker, Belize © Ryan Chapman

A popular hippy hangout in the 1970's, Caye Caulker has retained its lazy vibes - whilst avoiding the tide of resortisation that has swept over neighbouring Caye Ambergris - and thoroughly deserves its legendary status throughout the backpacker community.

Little more than a sand bar, and just a few metres above sea level at its highest point, Caye Caulker is particularly vulnerable to hurricanes and rising seas. But, if this puts the locals on edge, they don't show it. The island’s mantra ‘go slow’ is painted on tree trunks and etched into the minds of locals and tourists alike.

Caye Caulker, Belize © Ryan Chapman 

One hazy, lazy afternoon - running slightly late for a coffee appointment - I was stopped by a police officer and, only half-jokingly told that I was walking too fast. "Go slow" he softly demanded with something approaching a smile, though sternly enough for me to take note.

I was on my way to meet Joni Miller, a Canadian teacher who had originally just come to Caye Caulker on a snorkelling trip in 1999. She was struck by the lack of opportunities for the island’s youngsters and later returned to establish the Ocean Academy.

Today, she's probably the busiest person on the island, dedicating every ounce of energy into giving Caye Caulker's children the best possible start in life.

The film I made with Joni at the Ocean Academy can be viewed below and on Destination: Utopia, a platform for sharing ideas and initiatives from around the world that inspire positive change.

Field of Dreams

I recently had the pleasure of making a short film for the Rwandan Cricket Stadium Foundation, supporting their fund raising campaign to build Rwanda's first international cricket ground. It's a worthy cause that's building on the positive impact cricket is having on Rwandan communities since the genocide.

Cricket was largely unknown in Rwanda before the 1990's. Despite its popularity elsewhere in Western Africa, Rwandans had been spared the very English pastime due to being ruled first by Germany, and then by Belgium. They dodged the reach of the British Empire in the 19th century and therefore avoided cricket as a tool of colonialism.

Rwandan Cricket Stadium Foundation's vision of a new stadium

Rather than from Britain, cricket came to Rwanda a century later via Kenya and Uganda courtesy of Rwandan refugees. Many had fled to these neighbouring countries when tribal tensions exploded in 1994 and then returned to Rwanda bearing the gift of cricket.

The scarily recent genocide from which they had fled - during which 800,000 people were slaughtered over 100 long, bloody days - lives on in the memories of Rwandans and continues to haunt every day life. 20% of the entire population were murdered. 

Currently, Rwanda's national cricket ground is on the site of one of the most horrific massacres of the genocide, upon which thousands of people were hacked to death with machetes. Until recently, it was common for players to come across human bones during play. It's perhaps somewhat fitting that I'm writing this on Halloween, given how gruesome these details are.

The Rwandan Cricket Stadium Foundation have recognised the role cricket is playing in Rwanda's healing process. As cricket brings people together they are keen to harness the unity that Rwanda's fastest growing sport is encouraging. Therefore, they set out to raise £1 million to develop a stadium with modern facilities so Rwanda can begin to host international games and attract more young people to the sport.

As part of the fund-raising efforts Rwandan cricket captain Eric attempted to break the world record for net practice by batting continuously for 52 hours. This short film, comprising of GoPro footage shot on the day, tells Eric's story:

You can help them raise the remaining funds required to finish their field of dreams here.

The Humanitarian Film Festival

The Humanitarian Film Festival begins today and my short film The Other Human was among the 12 films selected to feature. The festival, in support of the UN's World Humanitarian Day this month, is showcasing films that exemplify compassion and empathy for all human beings.

I shot The Other Human on a trip to Athens at the height of the Greek Depression, and just as refugees had begun arriving from across the Mediterranean in high numbers. I met Kostas - the kind, warm-hearted Athenian in the film - and joined him as he cooked "free food for all" on the streets of the Greek capital.

Kostas

There are many desperate, hungry people who have benefited from the compassion of Kostas, a man who truly believes that "no victims are necessary".

The Other Human was originally shared on Destination: Utopia last year, my platform sharing ideas and initiatives that inspire positive change. Please follow D:U on Twitter @DestUtopia or visit the website here.

You can watch the film on the festival's website here... and if you think it's worthy, please vote for it here.

Panic on the streets of Coventry

In the days leading up to the English Defence League's 'national demonstration' in Coventry, the notorious far-right wing group announced they wanted to "reclaim" what had become a "Muslim ghetto". In response to this, anti-fascism activists and disgruntled Coventrians made it clear to the EDL that their message of hate and division was not welcome.

Welcome or not, over a hundred EDL supporters from as far north as Newcastle and as far south as Devon descended on Coventry - a city most of them knew nothing about - to tell all the white working class locals that they should be angry with their Muslim neighbours.

I was there to cover the day's events for Brace Club and alternated between the EDL's demo - confined to the edge of the city centre - and a counter-protest organised by Unite Against Fascism on the town square. The police meanwhile, out in huge numbers, attempted to maintain a semblance of calm.

The EDL, well aware of their public image as violent, knuckle-dragging hooligans, have made recent attempts to clean up their act. Messages on social media pleaded with supporters not to get too drunk and volunteer stewards in EDL-branded fluorescent jackets stood by at the demonstration, seeking to discourage anything that might paint a damning picture.

Unfortunately for them, their bigoted hate-filled rhetoric speaks louder than any attempt to be taken seriously. When regional leaders announce their disgust that a "bloody Muslim" can be voted as mayor of London and points to this as evidence of them "slowly taking over", their true colours come to the fore.

Meanwhile, the counter-protesters were keen to remind everybody that Coventry is "one of the most harmoniously multicultural cities in the country", and with that in mind, support from locals for the EDL was always going to be thin on the ground. Coventry, after all, takes pride in being the birthplace of the UK's ska revival in the late 1970's, with multi-racial bands such as The Specials preaching racial unity.

Raising concerns over Islamic extremism and talking about how to tackle it is not Islamophobic and labelling it as such cheapens the term when used to rightfully describe the actions of the English Defence League. Not only are they Islamophobic, they promote hatred, violence and disunity, and though the principle of free speech should always prevail their message must continue to be countered.

The short film I made for Brace Club in Coventry is online here:

Rum, drums and rocking chairs

Simply put: Cuba is incredible, and you must go now. Incredible because of the people, their attitude to life and the island's Caribbean lushness. And right now, before up to 110 daily flights begin arriving from US airports.

I'm not saying American influences are going to taint everything that's wonderful about Cuba, I'm merely suggesting that you shouldn't wait to find out.

Trinidad © Ryan Chapman

Right now, Cuba is a traveler's paradise, and it's the Cuban people themselves who are largely responsible for that. Take typical Irish openness, Islamic hospitality and Latin American warmth, put it all together and you'll have something approaching the average Cuban.

Add to that: you're on a Caribbean island, it's still pretty cheap and, if you avoid resorts, you have the perpetual feeling you're traveling off the beaten track. No wonder the secret is out.

La Boca © Ryan Chapman

The heart of Cuba beats to frantic Afro-Caribbean rhythms from rumba to reggaeton, but life itself is relaxed and unhurried. A Cuban's day is more likely to involve several games of dominoes than present any problems that kicking back in a rocking chair with a bottle of rum can't solve.

The truth is, Cuba is not the failing communist nightmare it's often purported to be. By providing a high standard of healthcare and education; subsidising essentials such as food and electricity; and fostering crime-free neighbourhoods, Cuba is clearly in a much better state than many other Latin American countries. Haiti and Honduras being the obvious examples to the other extreme, both struggling with poverty, inequality and violence.

Plaza de la Revolutción, Havana © Ryan Chapman

I'm not saying Cuba doesn't have it's problems (democracy, for example, is an area that could use some work...) but you'd be hard pressed to find a happier bunch of people. Today - with the more pragmatic of the dictatorial Castro brothers in charge, and an improving relationship with the USA - change is rampant, and Cubans are looking to the future with cautious optimism.

"We like President Obama, but we will never forget the history. It's what makes us Cuban”, explained our host in the very town on the Bay of Pigs where the USA-backed invasion failed in 1961. "Sure, there are things we could do better, but there are big things we don’t want to change and I don't think we'll get a choice. America wants to own everyone."

Bay of Pigs © Ryan Chapman

Sorting fact from propaganda is something that's particularly precarious when dealing with the history of US-Cuba relations, but it's plain to see how the trade embargo has held the island nation back. However, with 191 of 193 United Nations member states recently condemning the USA for its continued stranglehold, Obama has been actively attempting to normalise relations. (Side note: the only country not to condemn the superpower, other than itself, was Israel).

Obama's efforts are welcome in Cuba, where many problems can be directly attributed to the blockade. "No one is homeless in Cuba, everyone gets housed by the state", another host told me between sips of rum, "but because of the trade embargo there is a shortage of building materials. So the government can't build enough homes and often four generations live under the same roof. Overcrowding is a big problem... mainly thanks to America."

Havana © Ryan Chapman

It remains to be seen how this coming together of ideologies will impact Cuba: an island where poverty is seen as a social problem, with social solutions; an island where, as our host on The Bay of Pigs put it, "people have little, but share everything from the heart"; a communist-led island in a sea of capitalism whose people are proud of their socialist values.

Maybe the best of both worlds will prosper and a unique brand of democratic socialism will thrive, like some kind of Scandinavian-Caribbean utopian hybrid. Or maybe the once forbidden fruits of wealth and riches will prove too enticing and Cuba will become another territory of the United States of Capitalism.

Whatever happens, it's happening now.

Havana © Ryan Chapman

If Cuba has been lingering towards the top of your bucket list for a while, I'd make it a priority and plan that trip, while keeping these things in mind:

Stay in casa particulares

Most hotels in Cuba are rated from average to awful, but casa particulares (somewhere between a home-stay and a bed and breakfast) allow you to stay with locals, put your money directly into their pockets and enjoy the fruits of Cuban hospitality first hand (quite literally: the fresh fruit at breakfast was a consistent highlight).

We didn't stay in a casa that wasn't excellent, but we did research them first using sites such as www.cubacasas.net and the old favourite, Trip Advisor. I'm sure there are bad ones around, but avoid them by booking ahead. 

Two favourites were Duniel & Maite's Hostal El Barbero in Playa Giron, and Guille & Viola's Hostal Buenavista in La Boca.

Havana © Ryan Chapman

Skip the resorts

Varadero receives more tourists than anywhere else in Cuba, but it's about as Cuban as a steak and ale pie. Most people come here - or other resort towns on the north coast - and don't leave. Yes, the beach is exceptional, and yes it's worth a day or two, but if you want to experience Cuba any day spent in Varadero is a day wasted. 

If you insist, at least stay in a casa particular.

Assume information is out of date

Things are changing so fast you need to take everything you read on the internet and in guide books with a pinch of salt because it's probably out of date.

Bus about

Viazul buses are clean, comfortable and air-conditioned. They're also far cheaper than hiring a car. The only downside is being bound to fairly irregular services (often one departure a day), but if you have time on your side the bus is the way to go. Don't even think about the train.

La Boca © Ryan Chapman

Fall in love with La Boca

La Boca was my personal highlight. Cubans chill in the Caribbean shallows sharing rum and laughter; others smoke cigars and play dominoes on upturned cardboard boxes. Children climb trees, pausing on high branches to watch friends play football on the sand below.

As the sky begins to glow pastel shades of pink and purple, fishermen row out towards the horizon, silhouetted against the setting sun. 

La Boca is a small fishing village just minutes from the relative bustle of Trinidad. Find your favourite rocking chair and spend at least a few days here. Adapt to the pace and allow it to soothe your soul.

[Film] Meet the Moonies

Towards the end of last year I was asked to make a documentary with rare inside access to the Unification Church, following a day in the life of a second-generation Unificationist - or, Moonie - called Michael.

Michael is 21 years old and a life-long member of the Church. Known for its cult-like tendencies, the Unification Church is perhaps most famous for its belief that world peace can be attained by marrying everyone off into couples and forming "true families". Just last year, Michael himself was matched at a mass-marrying ceremony in South Korea and is now eternal partners with a Japanese girl of similar age.

Left to right: Michael, Jake (the producer & presenter) and a fellow member, praying in front of a sacred tree.

The term Moonie derives from the name of Sun Myung Moon: the founder of the Church in 1954 and believed by members to be the second coming of Christ. He is known as the True Parent and is idolised as the personification of absolute perfection. 

I attended their Sunday service in North London before meeting Michael again at his home in a Moonie commune to make this film...

Don't touch wild camels

"Don't touch wild camels" warned the tannoy announcement as I arrived at Hong Kong airport. Slightly confused, I boarded the train to the city centre, safe in the knowledge - I assumed - that my trip would be entirely camel-free.

What with the food, the people and the language, Hong Kong feels quite, you know, foreign. Until, that is, you charge your phone with a British 3-pin plug and it blows your mind, or you go for a drink at a pub called The Globe in the heart of Soho and you're surrounded by pompous, white city boys. It's little wonder so many expats feel at home here.

Hong Kong © Ryan Chapman

After all, this identity-muddled corner of China was under the thumb of ol' Queenie until as recently as 1997, when the British Empire completed its imperial liquidation by handing Hong Kong to the Chinese. That's more recent than such culturally signifiant events as Arsene Wenger taking charge of Arsenal and R Kelly believing he could fly. My point being, it wasn't very long ago.

On my flight from Heathrow I had sat next to a very helpful lady who took it upon herself to recite the entire Hong Kong Lonely Planet guide into my face. As a result, I had a fairly in-depth knowledge of all the tourist hot-spots, but ended up doing exactly what I usually do in foreign cities: wandering around aimlessly, taking photographs and drinking beer.

I stopped regularly at food stalls and snacked on a variety of local favourites from roast duck on a stick to curry fish balls on a stick and from grilled squid on a stick to chicken cartilage - the bits you’d usually spit out - you guessed it, on a stick. The stick, of the latter combination, being the more edible of the duo. 

Hong Kong © Ryan Chapman

On my last evening before moving on I took in the harbour view from The Peak (because everyone said I shouldn't leave town before at least doing that), caught up with some old friends who I belatedly remembered lived in Hong Kong and watched English football in the only bar I could find not screening the Rugby World Cup. All, I feel compelled to add, without any encounters with camels. The next morning, I headed north over the faintly drawn border to Shenzhen.

Hong Kong and Shenzhen are linked by their metro systems: it's like getting the Tube up to High Barnet on the Northern Line, crossing the road, and then being at the Morden of an entirely different, but equally large city. Small and insignificant until as recently as 1979, Shenzhen is a product of China's effort to prove that a capitalist economy can thrive under a communist government, or "socialism with Chinese characteristics" as they put it. Whatever it is, it's boomtown: growing from the size of Dover to the size of London in just a few decades.

I was in Shenzhen to point cameras at people talking about cameras in exchange for money. My accommodation was sorted for me by the client and, as such, didn't bare the usual hallmarks of somewhere I'd usually choose to book myself, such as damp walls and stained carpets. To the contrary I found myself in the ridiculously luxurious surroundings of the overtly five star Langham Hotel.

Greeted at the door by four people – two to open it and two to smile – my first impressions were accompanied by the gentle plucking of a harp. Suitably impressed, I dumped my bags on the polished marble floor, sweat dripping from hauling them across the city, and was tempted to ask the immaculately presented receptionist whether this was the backpackers hostel.

Thinking better of it, I handed over my passport to Sunny, who checked me in, and was then shown to the lift by Sunny's colleague, Rainy. I really hoped that the next employee I encountered was called Windy but I forgot all about that when I entered my room and found a pillow menu awaiting my perusal, along side a note telling me what the weather was like today (in case I couldn't work out how to open the curtains). I could tell most of these luxuries were going to pass me by.

Every morning my cables were tidied
(which was actually quite annoying)

Settling on the normal pillow-shaped and normal pillow-sized lavender scented option that came as standard - albeit tempted by the alluringly named full-body pillow - I went for a drink in the hotel bar where I was soon to discover the annoyances of five-star Chinese hospitality.

As I sat, watching Shenzhen go by from the 21st floor, I was overcome with horror when my perfectly measured Cuba Libre was flooded with Coca-Cola by the over-eager resident topper-upper. Luckily for them, there was no openable window or else they may have found themselves being ejected through it.

The next morning at breakfast, exasperation levels were only marginally lower when, half-way through my morning cup of tea, along came a waitress who topped it up with coffee. Such was their desire to serve guests their every whim, the only option was to greet such travesties with gratitude and a smile. Anything else would have no doubt seen some lower-lips begin to tremble.

On another night, when a glass broke near me and I bent down to help pick up the pieces, the look on the waiter's face was one of terror. I stubbornly continued to help until I was literally man-handled out of the way.

Somehow avoiding death after daring to touch broken glass with my bare fingers, and surviving the incessantly hindering helpfulness of the hotel staff, I finally got the chance to explore Shenzhen on my last day and found it to be a much greener, more pleasant city than I had expected. One thing I was particularly keen to check out was a park containing replica landmarks from around the world that filled a huge site just outside the city centre.

Copy of Venice, Shenzhen © Ryan Chapman

Divided into zones, visitors can enjoy the morning in South East Asia and the afternoon in North America. Though it got boring quite quickly, I stayed long enough to find the area depicting England and was amused to find locals particularly enamoured by a replica of Stonehenge.

I've heard it said at home that Stonehenge is "just a pile of stones", which is definitely true if you take away the historic and spiritual context, like here. However, that didn't stop people photographing themselves, selfie-sticks at full stretch, in front of the pseudo-ancient rock formation; safe in the knowledge they'd now never have to go to Wiltshire.

Copy of Stonehenge, Shenzhen © Ryan Chapman

Copy of Paris, Shenzhen © Ryan Chapman

The place had replicas of a whole lot more: from the Vatican City to an almost-life sized interpretation of Paris, complete with a Parisian cafe serving croissants. And then, just when I'd forgotten the advice from Hong Kong airport I entered the Egyptian zone and there, standing by The Sphinx, staring into my soul whilst munching on hay in an all-too sinister fashion was a very real and very large camel. And I swear, at that very moment, it winked it me.

[Film] The Other Human: "no victims are necessary"

With the ever-worsening humanitarian crisis unfolding in Europe, and the subsequent vilification of people fleeing violent conflict and untold misery, there are many who could learn a great deal from Kostas: the warm-hearted Athenian in this short film who believes "no victims are necessary".

The Other Human - my second film under the banner of Destination: Utopia - focusses on a volunteer-run social kitchen in Athens that has been feeding people free of charge and indiscriminately every day for the last four years. 

Since I was in Athens just a few months ago, and blogged about the political situation in Greece, a lot has changed. What remains is an austerity-ravaged society struggling to deal with the influx of refugees and an ever-increasing amount of mouths to feed.

The solution is clearly not erecting fences and arming borders. So, while our leaders debate their next move, let's all learn from Kostas: that a little compassion goes a long way. 

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